A Local’s Guide to Atlanta
The A
ATL
The City Too Busy to Hate
Just whatever you do, don’t call it Hotlanta*
Atlanta is the gem of the South when it comes to metropolitan areas. It boasts a large number of Fortune 500 companies, professional sports teams, world-class universities, media giants, cultural influencers, and the world’s busiest airport. Originally named Terminus due to it’s significance in the railroad shipping business, Atlanta has transformed from a sleepy southern town into an iconic city which claims the birthplace to both Martin Luther King, Jr. and Coca-Cola. As anyone here can tell you, Atlanta Influences Everything. On display is both the old and the new, and a city still trying to find its identity in many ways, often underperforming its potential in the same fashion its sports teams do on the fields and courts**.
Though Atlanta doesn’t jump out to you in the same way as a San Francisco or New York, the city is filled with hidden gems, a vibrant culture, beautiful people, and Southern charm. If you want to fall in love with Atlanta, you have to put in the work. But, Atlanta is always ready to love you back and reward you for your efforts with experiences that make you shake your head and say, “Man, only in Atlanta.” Whether this is your first time in our beloved city, or you’ve lived here your entire life, I hope I can shine a light on some of the places that make this a special home for me and so many others.
Setting the Table:
First off this guide will be extremely biased to my preferences and what I enjoy most. If this isn’t your cup of tea, head over to Tripadvisor and knock yourself out. If you go that direction, be sure to hit up the World of Coke and have yourself a Beverly on me. This guide is also going to be far from kid friendly though you could surely find some things here where the little ones would be welcome to tag along. It will be nowhere near comprehensive and I can already hear people yelling at me for either leaving something out, or blowing up their favorite spot.
Atlanta has a lot of slang and terminology that might be foreign to you. I’ll try to break some of that down from the start so you don’t get too lost with this handy ATL dictionary…
What does it mean?
OTP and ITP — Atlanta is bisected in two directions from three different interstates (I-20, I-85, I-75) and surrounded by a bypass loop called 285 aka the Perimeter. For you Californians out there, they are all pronounced with the “I” in front of the number except for 285. Don’t come down here saying that you need to get on “the 20” unless you want to out yourself immediately. In the middle of the city, I-75 and I-85 merge into what is called “the connector.” Roughly speaking, Atlanta is anything inside the perimeter or ITP. If you find yourself staying with your cousin who “lives in Atlanta” but you are outside the perimeter (OTP), your cousin is a dirty liar. I-20 splits the city into north and south while 75/85 separate East and West.
MARTA stands for Metro Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority and consists of a network of trains and buses. It’s pretty straightforward but highly limited in where it can actually take you, which is a constant gripe of us progressive transit types. Always check if the train could get you where you need to go because as we like to say down here, “MARTA is smarta.” Also, you might hear that there is a new streetcar in town, but we don’t like to acknowledge that blunder. More on the history of Atlanta rail here.
The Beltline — The buzziest places in Atlanta are often found along a biking / walking path known as the Atlanta Beltline. First proposed by GA Tech grad student, Ryan Gravel, the Atlanta Beltline seeks to connect all the neighborhoods of Atlanta through a trail system that follows old abandoned train tracks. It has been wildly popular and a tremendous driver of economic growth even if we never get the light rail or affordable housing with it like we were promised.
Our Skylines — We have three: Downtown, Midtown, and Buckhead (from South to North). Downtown ends roughly at North Avenue and becomes Midtown, and Buckhead starts somewhere ambiguous along one of our many Peachtree’s. We have a lot of things named Peachtree - we know it’s confusing but there’s nothing we can do about it, so you’ll just have to deal with it.
Some general good things to know to better enjoy your stay:
- If you want tea the way we drink it, just ask for sweet tea. My uncle from CA once asked the waiter for a glass of “some sweetened iced tea” and I almost fell out of my chair.
- Don’t even think about drinking a Pepsi in this town.
- Wings are king. Lemon pepper wet will play anywhere in town (more on this later). Finding discarded wing bones lying around town is like playing the ATL version of Where’s Waldo.
- Watch out for any version of Dodge Chargers on the roads. They are public enemy number one when it comes to public safety.
- Potholes and metal plates will pop your car or bike tires, bend your rims, or break your ankle. Keep your eyes open because they are everywhere.
- Pedestrian laws do not apply to people in the city of Atlanta. You will see people crossing, walking, or laying in all parts of the streets.
- Don’t take a damn left turn on Dekalb Ave.
- Brunch is a sport here
- The Grady Curve is the most dangerous interchange in the world
- Don’t call it “Upper West Midtown”
- We might take you to The Varsity but we aren’t going to eat there with you.
- Traffic is a way of life here. No matter how long we’ve lived in the city, we will still complain about it like it’s our first time on the roads.
- The Braves are no longer in Atlanta, and some of us will never fully get over it. The World Series win helped though.
- Outkast forever
- You might fall in love with Atlanta but you can’t stay here. Sorry, we’re full.
Now that that’s out of the way, let’s get to the fun stuff
Things to do:
You just flew into Hartsfield-Jackson Airport, now what? Depending on how much time you have, you need to decide how much you can see on your trip. My advice would be to go deep rather than wide. Pick a few neighborhoods and areas to explore in greater detail and save the rest for your next trip. Trying to do it all will result in a lot of time on the roads because everything in Atlanta is “15 minutes away” by car.
Before I get to the neighborhood breakdowns, here are some of the more traditional touristy things that I strongly endorse.
The National Center for Civil and Human Rights and the King Center
The CCHR is one of the newest museums in Atlanta and is truly remarkable. It tells the story of the Civil Rights Movement with a focus on Atlanta and the incredible individuals that contributed to its success. The upstairs is dedicated to the ongoing battle over global human rights. It is the first place I take first timers to the city. The King Center, MLK home, Ebenezer Baptist Church, and other historic sites are also very worthy of your time, regardless of how much you happen to have.
An exceptional art museum with world-class exhibitions and great events.
Designed by the Olmstead brothers , the same men who designed Central Park in New York City, it features acres of green spaces, miles of trails, water features, skyline views of Midtown, the Atlanta Botanical Gardens, and is the perfect place to spend a sunny day. If you want a drink in the park with a view, feel free to hit up Park Tavern for awesome views, mediocre food, the most underutilized real estate in Atlanta, and a “when it rains we pour” policy that never seems to get honored smh.
The Neighborhoods
Now we are getting into it. I think the best parts of Atlanta are tucked away inside its many and varied neighborhoods. Each have their own character and style that set it apart from the rest. There’s no way I could cover them all so I’ll just hit on a few that I know best.
Inman Park
Atlanta’s first suburb now squarely in the city, Inman Park boasts fancy historic houses, great food and drink, bike and walkability, and ever increasing rents. Some places to hit up while you are there… Beetlecat is a seafood establishment by noted Atlanta chef Ford Fry, but the real gem is in the basement around back. There you’ll find a more relaxed environment, happy hour oysters, good beer and cocktails, and Atlanta’s best lobster roll. When you get to the bar, be sure to ask for AJ and tell him his half-brother sent you. Victory Sandwich Bar is a down to earth spot with indoor and outdoor seating, delicious sandwiches (you’re gonna need to order two), boozy slushies, and a ping pong table in the back room. The Albert is one of the last dive bar hangouts still operating in the area. If caffeine is what you need, head over to Inman Perk to get your fill. Highland Bakery is probably the best breakfast spot in the neighborhood and has great fresh baked goods. Krog Street Market is a popular and bustling food hall with plenty of options to check out if your group of friends can’t make up their mind about what they all want to eat. Ticonderoga Club is probably my favorite spot inside if you want a sit down dinner with fancy cocktails.
Old Fourth Ward
Featuring the birth home of Martin Luther King, Jr. and all of the King Center sites, the Old Fourth Ward is deeply historic and is one of my favorite neighborhoods in the city. It still has a ton of character even as it stands in the center of the tug-of-war between old and new Atlanta.
Edgewood Avenue is the focal point of this area as far as entertainment is concerned. Stop into the highly irreverent Church Bar for some sacrilegious drinks, games, and to get your picture taken by the Stacey Abrams mural outside (shout out to Occasional Superstar aka Fabian Williams, my favorite local muralist). Chrome Yellow Coffee is a great place to recharge or get your fix in before you have a long night out. Ammazza Pizza is very good but you do have some other places to get a slice along the way if you just can’t wait or it’s on the late side. Get ready to stand in line and wait to get ‘slutified’ at the Slutty Vegan, Pinky Cole’s runaway success vegan restaurant that’s taking over the South. Pop into Killer Mike’s SWAG Barber Shop if you want to meet some interesting people and jump into some lively conversations. If you are white, I know the concept of just popping into a barber shop sounds weird, but trust me it’s ok. My barber, Ernest Hood, opened a new shop on Chamberlin Ave a block away if you want to stop in and hear some groovy tunes or talk about art or life. The nightlife on Edgewood is legendary and gets started late. There are lots of places to dance, hang out, listen to live music, or just catch a vibe. Be sure to hit them up before they get turned into Mattress Shops.
In addition to Edgewood Ave, you’ve got the Sweet Auburn Market which features some great local food, Historic Old Fourth Ward Park, and if you just have to get THE Atlanta picture, it’s called the Jackson Street Bridge. Just don’t block the streets please.
Just north of the Old Fourth Ward you have an area I lovingly refer to as the Ponce Corridor. An eclectic mish-mash of stores, an historic baseball park turned shopping center, a Sears factory turned City Hall East turned Food Hall / Mall, this area doesn’t really know what it is, other than great. Ponce City Market or PCM is the safe way to play it because there is something for everyone there. The more adventurous might wander over to Eats for some down home food, the Murder Kroger*** for cheap drinks with a view, or the rooftop of the Clermont Hotel where you aren’t charged for an elevator ride up to a great view. A good, casual meal can be had at either Fellini’s or La Fonda, serving up either pizza or Mexican food, whichever you prefer. Depending on when you read this****, across the street from PCM offers one of the most unusual and interesting strips in all of the city. I will die by the belief that The Local has the best wings in Atlanta which pair perfectly with a basket of fried okra, Bookhouse Pub offers something for the pensive crowd, 8arm delivers an exciting meal and changing menu, and Friends is a great spot to shoot some pool and make some new ones. MJQ is another place here that I’ll get to later but you’ll probably walk right by (or over it) if you come by during the day.
If you keep going north, you’ll eventually end up in Virginia Highland, conveniently named after the intersection of Virginia and Highland Avenues. It features old Atlanta charm, a bevy of restaurants, bars and shops, and is a great neighborhood to stroll through. Highland Tap is an old world steakhouse with good food and the best martini deal in town. Blind Willie’s is a no frills spot that always has live music and features some really talented traveling musicians. Moe’s and Joe’s is a great place to grab a PBR and reminisce about your college days. Darkhorse Tavern is a great place to dance at night or try your hand at singing karaoke with a live band accompaniment.
Little Five Points and East Atlanta Village
If for some reason your trip to Portland got canceled, you’re in luck. Put on your favorite punk rock outfit and head down to Little Five or EAV as they are known locally. Long the hosts of Atlanta’s alt scene, these neighborhoods cater to all types of folks rebelling against the Southern norms. They are both highly walkable and feature tons of fun spots and great people watching. In L5P, I recommend the Porter for a great beer selection and one of the best burgers in town, Brewhouse to watch an ATL United or other soccer match, the Vortex for your second burger, Criminal Records for your vinyl needs, and Rag-O-Rama for second hand clothes. EAV is home to Georgia’s first Black-owned brewery, Hippin’ Hops, Argosy Pub has a great menu and beer selection, Gaja Korean Bar has a great vibe and fun menu, Mary’s to dance the night away and sing karaoke, and Midway Pub is one of my favorite spots to catch a sports game on their patio. But the best way to experience EAV is to head down on a Friday or Saturday night, walk down Flat Shoals Ave and drop in wherever you like the vibe.
Midtown is probably the most cosmopolitan and walkable part of our city, and there is a good chance that’s where your hotel is located. It offers some nice restaurants all the way up to fine dining, some good local comedy at The Laughing Skull Lounge or Kat’s Cafe, food and activities at the newly revamped Colony Square, and the Historic Fox Theatre if you’d like to catch a show while you’re in town. With construction cranes everywhere, it’s clear that Midtown is booming, even if everything they build are just different versions of glass boxes. But it is a safe bet if you are looking to book a centrally located hotel with great access to the city. I once worked at the former W Hotel on 14th street, so I am partial to it, but there are plenty of big name brands to choose from depending on your loyalty.
The Westside
I am not going to do this part of Atlanta justice because it’s an area I’ve spent the least amount of time in but it is well worth your visit. The Historic West End is undergoing a ton of change, again, with the expansion of the Beltline. Along that corridor, you have the Lee + White development which could be an entire day of your trip. Some of Atlanta’s best breweries can be found here, including Monday Night Garage, Wild Heaven, and Best End Brewing. Once you get tired of drinking beer, pop into ASW Whiskey Exchange for something a bit stronger. Then, when you are ready to leave, grab some more to-go from Atlanta’s original craft beer connoisseurs at Hop City. If you want something more active, climb into Atlanta’s newest bouldering gym, The Overlook. If you happen to get a dreaded work call or email and have to hop online during your trip, fear not. Plywood People has a beautiful coworking space here and it is the city’s original home for social entrepreneurs and people working in the impact space. Though he’s no Adam Neumann, Plywood’s founder and chief Jeff Shinabarger loves incubating and accelerating big ideas that make the world a better place.
Castleberry Hill is one of Atlanta’s most interesting and least well known neighborhoods, and its residents would like to keep it that way. Originally known by the moniker “Snake Nation,” it was the wild-west style red light district of Atlanta occupied by brothels, gamblers, and ne’er do wells. It now hosts some very impressive art collections, set nicely against the industrial brick buildings and amongst repurposed lofts. Due to its unique look, you’re likely to get caught in the middle of a film production transforming this little slice of the city into New York or some other far flung place. When I lived in a giant loft in Castleberry years ago, Kate Hudson and Riz Ahmed filmed a large portion of the Reluctant Fundamentalist by the great Mira Nair in our apartment. I even had tea with Kate in our kitchen but that’s a story for another day. Peters street is the center of life in Castleberry Hill and features a diverse selection of bars and restaurants. My favorite is a low key spot named Parlor Den, run by the sartorial entrepreneur Alphonzo Cross. No Mas! Cantina is another classic Castleberry spot where you can wet your whistle while chowing down on Mexican dishes. Elliott Street Pub is the best place to hang before or after an event at the Benz.
From Castleberry Hill, you can take Northside Drive past the new Mercedes-Benz Stadium until it forks left onto Marietta Street. Along here there are some great restaurants and bars to enjoy and shopping as well (or so I’m told). Delia’s Chicken Sausage stand is an Atlanta staple, as is Northside Tavern if you are in the mood for a divey blues bar. You can get a great breakfast at West Egg if you can beat the weekend crowd, and later on you can go down into Ormsby’s if you enjoy bar games and hanging with Tech students. There are too many nice restaurants in this area to list, and Yelp would be a better resource for you than I could ever be. But, going with a common theme, this area too is growing and changing rapidly, and new places seem to pop up weekly.
Downtown
Distant from the days of old, Downtown is far from the cultural center of Atlanta. Locals will find themselves there to catch a game at the Benz or State Farm Arena, or a concert at the Tabernacle. Tourists will wander around Centennial Olympic park looking for ways to put their hard earned trip budget to use. I do enjoy the newly built College Football Hall of Fame and its interactive design, and you will too if you are a fan of the sport. Underground Atlanta is a shell of what it once was, and sadly not worth your time. Downtown is the center of museums and business conventions so you might find yourself here one way or another during your trip. After business hours most of the life leaves Downtown along with its suit wearing non residents, leaving you an Uber or Lyft away from the city’s bustling nightlife.
Buckhead
Nah, I’ll let someone else cover this. But seriously, if you are a recent graduate of an SEC school not ready to give up your glory days, I’m sure you’ll have a blast here. If you are an SEC graduate in your 30s, the place you are looking for is actually called Brookhaven.
Some last things to briefly touch on since this has gotten rather unwieldy…
Iconic Spots
The Clermont Lounge — Don’t Google it, just go in with an open mind and bring cash. And don’t even think about taking a picture inside.
Homegrown has the best breakfast in Atlanta — I’ll fight over that
MJQ and El Bar are the two best places to dance in Atlanta. MJQ is an underground bunker with zero ventilation and great music. El Bar is in the basement of a Mexican restaurant that is guaranteed to prompt your friends to ask “Are you sure we’re in the right place?” The Basement in East Atlanta Village gets an honorable mention here for sure, though its upstairs neighbor the Graveyard is no longer with us (RIP). Johnny’s Hideaway is a notorious cougar bar which can serve up a lot of late night entertainment as well.
BBQ — We love our ‘cue here and have plenty to choose from. I’m not picking the best in ATL out of fear for my own safety, but some of my personal favorites are: Fox Brothers, Daddy D’z, Wood’s Chapel, and Lake & Oak.
If you want some traditional southern food, head over to Mary Mac’s Tea Room, South City Kitchen, Busy Bee Cafe, Paschal’s, or the Beautiful Restaurant.
Brick Store Pub might be the greatest beer bar in America and is part of a really nice downtown Decatur, which is not technically Atlanta, but we’re friends.
Buford Highway is an awesome culinary stretch where you can please your palate with exotic food from around the world. Atlanta Magazine did an entire guide on this so just follow their advice.
Live music is a huge part of the Atlanta experience. There are too many venues to list but be sure to catch a show while you are here.
This ATL Rap Map does an incredible job showing the deep roots of the Atlanta hip hop scene. It also makes a great gift for your favorite ATLien.
One of my favorite things to do in Atlanta is to hit up the wide varieties of festivals hosted here throughout the year. If you are in town for a weekend, look around and you’ll probably find a fun one to go to where you can mingle with the locals. Chomp and Stomp is my personal favorite and features a 5k, chili cook-off, and bluegrass festival every Fall in the (formerly) artsy Cabbagetown neighborhood. But they all are great and worth exploring.
Whoa! What started as a simple city guide for friends visiting Atlanta has turned into a love letter to my city. Atlanta can be messy and frustrating at times. Things don’t always work as they should and rarely are things as good as they could be. But they are ours, and we love even the broken parts. If it’s your first time in Atlanta, slow down and enjoy the city at a leisurely pace. Nod and wave as you pass people on the street. Strike up a conversation with a local. You don’t need to be in a hurry when you already are where you’re supposed to be.
Love,
Zack Mellette
*The correct pronunciation is closest to “Atlannuh”
** With the Braves World Series win in 2021, we might have finally broken the curse. Since they are no longer in Atlanta, only time will tell.
***Every Kroger here has a nickname, and the one in this location got its by some unfortunate events that occurred there over the years. Though a new revamped “Beltline Kroger” has taken its place, to OGs it will always be Murder Kroger.
****Rumor has it that this entire area has been bought and is being redeveloped, a sad but all too common theme around the city these days. These types of places are what makes Atlanta desirable, which increases the land value, which leads to them being destroyed by developers. It’s a vicious cycle.
